Our hotel in Madrid allowed us a late check out at noon. This gave anyone in the group the whole morning free to take it easy, do a bit of shopping, or walk around to see another sight. Theresa and I and the guys walked down the street from the hotel to check out a ladies store we had passed several times (each previous time closed). Theresa and I even tried on a pretty sweater that we liked, but neither of us are the right portions for the clothes here.
We met up with Tony & Sheila in the hotel lobby and found out they had been walking down by the Plaza Mayor trying to find a shoe store they saw.
We had reservations on the 2:50pm EVA (express) train from Madrid to Toledo. So, it was time to load the group up in a couple of taxis and head to the train station. The train ride was only about 35 minutes and the country side was flat and I didn't find it beautiful.
The Toledo train station is a work of art with lots of details and was built in 1917 to 1919.
I had booked the group into the Pinor El Grecco Hotel. When we went to check in we found out that Theresa, Jim, Ed and I had been moved to another hotel because the part of the hotel that our rooms were in didn't have any water. The hotel manager was not available in the hotel and the young lady checking us in could not reach him on his cell, she had no power to arrange for the Kleins to move to the hotel with us. I could see a problem brewing because Tony & Sheila didn't want to be separated from the group. When you have a problem, have the group drink a beer. There was a very handy bar just around the corner and I sent them off.
When the General Manager arrived I found him very understanding of my problem about separating the group into different hotels. He called the other hotel and arranged for the Kleins room there. It was explained to me the new hotel was very close and it would be easy for us to walk there. I just didn't want the group lugging their stuff through the streets (all cobblestone) of Toledo to new hotel. The manager arranged for a taxi to come and transport all our luggage to new hotel. The group set off to the new place following a map…it was all up a steep narrow cobble stone road and we had to stop and ask three times if we were going in the right direction, even two local ladies had no idea where this hotel was located. We found out it had just opened a month before.
The new hotel was very welcoming and turned out to be lovely. Ed and I ended up in the largest room with a sitting area. So, we got to host the Happy Hour the following night in our room.
The hotel's location turned out to be excellent and only a few blocks for the cathedral. It was just a little manner of learning the twisting streets. Sometimes you felt like a mouse stuck in a maze and trying to work your way out the the prize would be your hotel.
Toledo is Spain's former capital and sits on a high rocky hill and is protected on three sides by the Tajo River. This ancient city offers a rich mix of Jewish, Moorish and Christian heritage (was Spain's leading Catholic city) and to me is a true highlight of Spain.
On our first evening we walked by the cathedral going to a tapas bar the hotel had told us about. That evening Theresa had opted to stay in the room and have a relaxing evening and order room service. Jim and I stopped in a grocery store next door to the hotel and got her a few items for the room.
Walking back to the hotel that evening the night was perfect…warm weather and the lights on the church were illuminated and the moon hung above it all….
The following morning Sheila, Tony and Jim left the hotel at 8:00 for a long walk to the outside of the city wall and half way around the city to enter the other gate. Theresa and I opted for the same route but with Rafael has our driver. He drove us through the Old Jewish Quarter and out the west gate and to the other side of the river to view the city from across the other hill.
The bright coral (reddish) building in the center of the photo is our hotel. Rafael commented that he wondered how the owner got permission from the city to paint the hotel that color…it's all about who you know.
We had a nice tour and Rafael pointed out some very interesting places and facts about the town. He ended our tour right at the Cathedral, where we went next. We bumped into Ed in there, he was almost finished with his tour and we had just started our audio tour of the interior. We set up an meeting place in the plaza in front of the church to meet everyone two hours later. Theresa and I spend the next two hours walking through the church and having our breath stolen from us at the size and beauty of the place.
I was trying to lead the group to a restaurant that Rafael had pointed out during our tour. When we had search the couple of streets where I thought it was located, we called Rafael on his cell and lost the connection just as he was telling us the address. So, we just decided to stay in the place, Restaurant Palacios, that had been so kind to let us use their phone.
After lunch Theresa and Ed headed back to the hotel while the rest of us went over to the Jewish Quarter. Sheila was out front leading the way, she did have a few problems with Jim and I keeping up, there were just too many photo opportunities for us.
We toured the small Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca, this synagogue has Moorish arches and wall carvings. While it doesn't look like a mosque with it's interior columns, it was never one. It was built as a Jewish synagogue by Muslim workers around 1200, it became a church in 1492 when Toledo's Jews were required to convert or leave.
Just down the street a half of block is the San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio, "St. John of the Monarchs" is a grand Franciscan monastery, impressive church and a delightful "Isabeline" cloistered courtyard. This was the intended burial site of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabel and Ferdinand. But, after the Moors were expelled in 1492 from Granada, their royal bodies were planted there to show Spain's commitment to maintaining a Moor-free peninsula.
Tony, Sheila and Jim had not toured the Cathedral so I stayed with then until we got close to the hotel and I headed in that direction. The three of them went to the Cathedral for see it's beauty.
The group was looking forward to dinner and sharing all about our day of exploring Toledo. Ed opted not to join us for dinner and remain at the hotel, the elder of the group needed more rest for his back was causing him some problems.
We walked down the hill to a restaurant very near our original hotel. The evening again was perfect for sitting out.
Yes, there was even room for dessert…this one had a couple of chocolate truffles and two pieces of Mazapan
After dinner the restaurant provided our table with a bottle of icy cold Mazapan Cream - made in the restaurant, not available anywhere else and Theresa's face shows what everyone thought of it….
OK, time for all of us to return to the hotel and get a good nights sleep…the following day we were off on the train to Cordoba
Peggy
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