Toledo - Sept. 10th - Tuesday.

Tuesday, Sept. 10th

Our hotel in Madrid allowed us a late check out at noon.  This gave anyone in the group the whole morning free to take it easy, do a bit of shopping, or walk around to see another sight.  Theresa and I and the guys walked down the street from the hotel to check out a ladies store we had passed several times (each previous time closed).  Theresa and I even tried on a pretty sweater that we liked, but neither of us are the right portions for the clothes here.

We met up with Tony & Sheila in the hotel lobby and found out they had been walking down by the Plaza Mayor trying to find a shoe store they saw.

We had reservations on the 2:50pm EVA (express) train from Madrid to Toledo.  So, it was time to load the group up in a couple of taxis and head to the train station.  The train ride was only about 35 minutes and the country side was flat and I didn't find it beautiful.  

The Toledo train station is a work of art with lots of details and was built in 1917 to 1919.

The taxi stand was just outside the front door of the station.  We just grabbed the first taxi available and the driver was Rafael (Ralph) and spoke great English.  He got the second taxi for us and started loading up with all luggage.  We found out that Rafael had grown up on a dairy farm outside of Melbourne and had married a local girl in Toledo and had lived here 25 years.  He was a wealth of information.  Theresa and I arranged for him to drive us around on a tour the following morning.

I had booked the group into the Pinor El Grecco Hotel.  When we went to check in we found out that Theresa, Jim, Ed and I had been moved to another hotel because the part of the hotel that our rooms were in didn't have any water.  The hotel manager was not available in the hotel and the young lady checking us in could not reach him on his cell, she had no power to arrange for the Kleins to move to the hotel with us.  I could see a problem brewing because Tony & Sheila didn't want to be separated from the group.  When you have a problem, have the group drink a beer.  There was a very handy bar just around the corner and I sent them off.  

When the General Manager arrived I found him very understanding of my problem about separating the group into different hotels.  He called the other hotel and arranged for the Kleins room there.  It was explained to me the new hotel was very close and it would be easy for us to walk there.  I just didn't want the group lugging their stuff through the streets (all cobblestone) of Toledo to new hotel.  The manager arranged for a taxi to come and transport all our luggage to new hotel.  The group set off to the new place following a map…it was all up a steep narrow cobble stone road and we had to stop and ask three times if we were going in the right direction, even two local ladies had no idea where this hotel was located.  We found out it had just opened a month before.

The new hotel was very welcoming and turned out to be lovely.  Ed and I ended up in the largest room with a sitting area.  So, we got to host the Happy Hour the following night in our room.  

The hotel's location turned out to be excellent and only a few blocks for the cathedral.  It was just a little manner of learning the twisting streets.  Sometimes you felt like a mouse stuck in a maze and trying to work your way out the the prize would be your hotel.

Toledo is Spain's former capital and sits on a high rocky hill and is protected on three sides by the Tajo River.  This ancient city offers a rich mix of Jewish, Moorish and Christian heritage (was Spain's leading Catholic city) and to me is a true highlight of Spain.  

On our first evening we walked by the cathedral going to a tapas bar the hotel had told us about.  That evening Theresa had opted to stay in the room and have a relaxing evening and order room service.  Jim and I stopped in a grocery store next door to the hotel and got her a few items for the room.

 This is the little tapas bar we found off Plaza Zocodover at the end of a street.  We spent a couple of hours enjoying our drinks and light dinner of tapas.

Walking back to the hotel that evening the night was perfect…warm weather and the lights on the church were illuminated and the moon hung above it all….

The following morning Sheila, Tony and Jim left the hotel at 8:00 for a long walk to the outside of the city wall and half way around the city to enter the other gate.  Theresa and I opted for the same route but with Rafael has our driver.  He drove us through the Old Jewish Quarter and out the west gate and to the other side of the river to view the city from across the other hill.

The bright coral (reddish) building in the center of the photo is our hotel.  Rafael commented that he wondered how the owner got permission from the city to paint the hotel that color…it's all about who you know.

We had a nice tour and Rafael pointed out some very interesting places and facts about the town.  He ended our tour right at the Cathedral, where we went next.  We bumped into Ed in there, he was almost finished with his tour and we had just started our audio tour of the interior.  We set up an meeting place in the plaza in front of the church to meet everyone two hours later.  Theresa and I spend the next two hours walking through the church and having our breath stolen from us at the size and beauty of the place.

 Everyone meets in front of the cathedral ready for lunch!

I was trying to lead the group to a restaurant that Rafael had pointed out during our tour.  When we had search the couple of streets where I thought it was located, we called Rafael on his cell and lost the connection just as he was telling us the address.  So, we just decided to stay in the place, Restaurant Palacios, that had been so kind to let us use their phone. 

 It was here that Tony & Ed tried the partridge, Jim had the roasted suckling pig, I did the pork chops, 

After lunch Theresa and Ed headed back to the hotel while the rest of us went over to the Jewish Quarter.  Sheila was out front leading the way, she did have a few problems with Jim and I keeping up, there were just too many photo opportunities for us. 

We toured the small Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca, this synagogue has Moorish arches and wall carvings.  While it doesn't look like a mosque with it's interior columns, it was never one.  It was built as a Jewish synagogue by Muslim workers around 1200, it became a church in 1492 when Toledo's Jews were required to convert or leave.

Just down the street a half of block is the San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio, "St. John of the Monarchs" is a grand Franciscan monastery, impressive church and a delightful "Isabeline" cloistered courtyard.  This was the intended burial site of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabel and Ferdinand.  But, after the Moors were expelled in 1492 from Granada, their royal bodies were planted there to show Spain's commitment to maintaining a Moor-free peninsula.  

Tony, Sheila and Jim had not toured the Cathedral so I stayed with then until we got close to the hotel and I headed in that direction.  The three of them went to the Cathedral for see it's beauty.  

The group was looking forward to dinner and sharing all about our day of exploring Toledo.  Ed opted not to join us for dinner and remain at the hotel, the elder of the group needed more rest for his back was causing him some problems.

We walked down the hill to a restaurant very near our original hotel.  The evening again was perfect for sitting out.

Yes, there was even room for dessert…this one had a couple of chocolate truffles and two pieces of Mazapan

 Jim had a bowl of pudding 

After dinner the restaurant provided our table with a bottle of icy cold Mazapan Cream - made in the restaurant, not available anywhere else and Theresa's face shows what everyone thought of it….

OK, time for all of us to return to the hotel and get a good nights sleep…the following day we were off on the train to Cordoba

Peggy

El Escorial Day Tour - Sept. 8th

Sunday, September 8th

Today was a full day trip to El Escorial located about 30 miles northwest of Madrid.  We opted to try a new form of transportation for us…the bus.  The bus station is only a 10 minute walk from our hotel.  The building is modern and you enter on the street level but you go down the escalator one flight to the departure area. 

 The buses enter an under ground garage and you have to locate your departure door.  There is a sign above each door telling the destination of the bus, the number of the bus and several times of departure.  All you need to do is just get in line and wait.  You pay the driver cash once you enter these modern coaches.  Our fare was 4.5 Euros each way per person.  The buses depart on time.

It was nice to be above ground and see a little of the country.  The ride was only about 45 minutes and delivered us to the town of San Lorenzo where the El Escorial is located.

Monastertio da San Lorenzo El Escorial was built in the time when  Catholic Spain felt threatened by Protestant 'heretics'.  The construction of this palace dominated the Spanish economy for a generation (1562 to 1584).  Because of this major undertaking, Spain has almost nothing else to show from this period.  The building is about 650 feet long and 50 feet wide.

King Philip II (1527-1598) was very Catholic and ruled his empire and the Inquisition from here.  To Philip this building embodied the wonders of Catholic learning, spirituality, and arts.  To the 16th century followers of Martin Luther, it epitomized the evil of closed-minded Catholicism.  

The building was conceived by Philip II to serve several purposes: as a grand mausoleum for Spain's royal family, starting with his father, Charles V (known as Carlos I in Spain); as a monastery to pray (a lot) for the royal souls; as small palace to use as a Camp David of sorts for Spain's royalty; and as a school to embrace humanism in a way that promoted the Catholic faith.

The whole group of us was really excited to tour the El Escorial.  We had read the history behind the importance of this in Spain's history.  Well, when we arrived a guard told it was closed today and tomorrow because of a local religious holiday with a parade in town.  This is what we deal with in Cuenca, Ecuador when an unannounced holiday comes up and closes things.  With nothing else in the city to see, we just walked around.  The local children were dressed and walking with their parents.  Everyone was out enjoying the holiday and perfect weather.  

So, we just joined them and toured the small town.  After a few hours, it was time for a beer break.  The place we stopped at also had hand made pizzas on the menu…well food always goes good with beer, so we ordered two for the table.  It was most enjoyable just to sit outside and drink our beers or glass of Sangria.  Both of the pizzas we ordered were fresh, thin crust and excellent!  That did take a little of the sting out of not getting in to see the interior of the palace.

When, we arrived back in Madrid, we had to pass the large shopping building of El Corte Ingles.  Theresa and I needed to stop in there to each pick up one item.  She needed a new curling iron and I needed fingernail polish remover.  She didn't find what she wanted at a price she felt was reasonable (79 Euros) but I was successful in the polish remover (only 7 Euros).

The group meet in the hotel lobby at 7:00pm to go to dinner.  I had planned for us to go tapas hopping but the 4 places I had selected three were closed on Sunday.  We asked the hotel and they gave us walking directions to a couple of place close together.  It was about a 10 to 15 minute walk.  We stopped at one place and decided after we sat down, it was an OK place for a drink but not for dinner.  Tony ran across the street and checked out another restaurant for us.  The menu selection was good and the prices reasonable.  He was able to talk them into holding a table for us for 30 minutes…great job Tony!

We sat on their outdoor front patio area a great place for people watching.  The menu offered an wide selection of food and we all tried something different, except Sheila & Ed had the same dish.  Tony had salmon, Theresa had mushroom risotto, Jim had turkey meatballs & pasta with a mild curry sauce, I had grilled pork and the other two had the Iberian Pork dish (more like pork hocks with a rich dark gravy).  Everyone was pleased with their selection and it was a most enjoyable couple of hours.  We arrived back at the hotel at 10:00pm where had the evening gone?

We have to meet in the lobby at 8:50 tomorrow morning.  We will meet up with our professional guide then and she will take us to the Royal Palace, walking tour of Plaza Mayor area, lunch and the Prado Museum.  It will be a full day of sightseeing for all of us.

Peggy

Madrid - Private Tour - Monday, Sept. 9th

I had arranged for our group to have a private guide to show us the Royal Palace and the Prado Museum on Monday, Sept. 9th.  Mayte, a charming young lady, met us in the lobby of our hotel at 8:55am and we grabbed two cabs and off we went.

Our first stop was at the Puerta del Sol (Gate to the Sun) and is , Madrid's central square, here Mayte explained about how Madrid was built and this was the central point.

 This is marker is "kilometer zero" the symbolic center of Spain (with its six mail highways indicated).

This statue in the middle of the square honors King Charles II (1716 - 1788) whose enlightened urban policies earned him the affectionate nickname "the best mayor of Madrid".  He decorated the city squares with beautiful fountains. 

This building with the bell tower was Madrid's first post office, founded by Charles III in the 1760's.  We were told about the crowds that fill the square on New Year's Eve the locals will eat twelve grapes (to bring them good luck) as the clocks strikes midnight.

The bear pawing the tree is a symbol of Madrid since medieval times.  Bears use to live in the royal hunting grounds outside the city.  The madrono trees have a berry that makes the tradition Madrono liqueur.

This shop sells beautiful fans from 30 Euros up to a couple of thousand…it's fun to watch women flip open their final fan choices before buying.

Plaza Mayor……….
    This large cobbled stoned square is for pedestrians only.  In medieval times, this was the city's main square.  

The equestrian statue honors Philip III, who in 1619 transformed the medieval marketplace into a Baroque plaza.  The square is 140 years long and 102 yards wide, enclosed by the three-story buildings.  The building have slate roofs, steeped towers, and symmetrical windows and balconies.  It reminded of something in Vienna, Austria than in Spain.

The square's building have private apartments ….. it's a great place to live.  The cost of a small tiny attic studio runs about 400,000 Euros to a large 2,500 square foot apartment for 2 million Euros!

Church & Convent of Corpus Christi - 

 

There is a large coat of arms over the main entrance of the church. It belongs to the rich family that built this church and convent in 1607.  In those times the most prestigious thing a noble family could do was build and maintain a convent.  Just down the side of the building is a big wooden door with a door bell next to it.  To buy goodies from the cloistered nuns, buzz the button, then wait patiently for the sister to respond.  This morning we were told the cookies would not be ready for an hour and then had to cool, so we missed buy from them.

We continued our walk to Plaza de la Villa

 The statue in the garden is of Philip II's admiral, Don Alvaro de Bazan.  He was the mastermind of the Christian victory over the Turkish Ottomans at the naval battle of Lepanto in 1571.  This pivotal battle, fought off the coast of Greece, slowed the Ottoman threat to Christian Europe.

This beautiful structure features Madrid's distinctive architectural style…symmetrical square towers, topped with steeples and slate roof.  This building still functions as Madrid's ceremonial Town Hall, though the city council have moved elsewhere.

We now continued our walk down hill toward the Royal Palace - our first view from the hill…..

 Theresa Blazek and Sheila Klein in front of the Royal Palace

I was not allowed to take any pictures inside the Royal Palace…
This is Europe's third-greatest palace, after Versailles and Vienna's Schonbrunn (I've been to both of those).  They say this is the most sumptuous original interior, packed with royal antiques.  It has 2,800 rooms and I'm sure I walked through all of them! 

The palace is the product of many kings over several centuries.  Philip II (1527-1598) made a wooden fortress on this site his governing center when he established Madrid as Spain's capital.  When that structure burned down, the current structure was built by King Philip V (1683-1746).  Philip V wanted to make it his own private Versailles, to match his French upbringing, he was born in Versailles, the grandson of Louis XIV.

Just a short distance down Calle Mayor is the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena …. this cathedral was opened in 1993, 100 years after workers stated building it.

The church is modern and has a beautiful colorful ceiling.

Lunch and time to rest our weary bones and drink a cold beer.  Our guide selected the restaurant and had a lovely outside cafe that had a beautiful view of the Royal Palace.  

I was so tired from all our walking and trying to remember just a part of Mayte shared with us about all we saw, I didn't remember to take good pictures of our lunch…sorry!

The grand finale…..   The Prado Museum
     I was not allowed to take any pictures inside the museum and that was probably better because I had to listen to what Mayte was telling us about several of the master pieces of artwork.

It was time to return to the hotel for a nap before we went out for our night of tapas hopping in Madrid.